
RESPECT AND CARE FOR YOUR QUARRY!
Whilst there are many different disciplines within our sport, the one thing that unites us is our quarry. At the end of the day, we all want to catch fish, whatever our chosen species may be. So why is it that I see so many people mistreating fish on the bank, when it is just as easy to do it right, and ensure that our fish are cared for and in prime condition when they are returned to the water? We can�t be deliberately choosing to put our quarry at risk, so I can only conclude that it is either laziness or lack of knowledge that can be the cause.
Whilst I dont claim to be any sort of expert when it comes to fish care, there are a few basic rules which everyone should follow. If you adhere to these rules, you are off to a good start. So try these on for size.
ALWAYS carry an unhooking mat. It doesn't matter if you are not fishing for specimens. You still have every chance of hooking one, and if you are not prepared, you could injure or kill that fish of a lifetime. There are plenty of cheap mats available, and some double as weigh slings. The roll up to virtually nothing so they don't take up a lot of room. You have no excuse! Putting fish on the grass is NOT good enough. They should always be placed on a wetted mat. Placing on a dry mat in hot weather can burn the fish quite badly. Remember that a fish should never come into contact with anything dry. Wet your hands, wet your weigh sling, wet your mat. And for Gods sake, don't handle fish with a dry cloth. If you can't face touching a fish, you shouldn't be fishing!
ALWAYS carry an antiseptic such as Klinik, it takes no room at all and costs very little. Any fish which are landed and show signs of sores, lesions or cuts can be treated quickly and easily, as can other minor scratches, grazes etc, to the outer body flanks of the fish. It is therefore important to understand the skin of fish and its constituent parts.
A fishes skin is made up of two layers, the dermis (inner layer) and the epidermis (outer layer). The dermis is a jelly like substance and is made from a loose collection of cells containing nerve endings and blood vessels. The scales also grow from the dermis. The epidermis is very thin but made from closely packed cells and secretes a layer of mucus. In effect this gives the fish an effective three part defence of mucus, epidermis and scales. Any damage to these parts can result in the fish being left open to infection from bacteria and fungus.
If damage is to the surface of the fish (the epidermis) and looks relatively superficial, a quick swab with an antiseptic solution such as Klinik or Aquaswab will treat and seal the damage. If the damage looks to be deeper, as you often see with some sores or lesions, a product such as Aquagel will protect against bacterial and fungal agents leaving a protective barrier against infection and aid the fishes natural healing process.
DO NOT put large fish in a keepnet. Please! I have heard this said time and again, and everybody you ever mention it to says "I know, I know" and yet we all still regularly see decent fish sploshed into a keepnet and kept there for hours. Large fish DIE in keepnets. Fact. Don't chance it. Take your photo, weigh it, and let it go. If you really MUST retain the fish, use a proper carp sack. If you haven't got one, any carp angler fishing anywhere near you will always be happy to lend you one. But remember, sack the fish the right way up, and in deep water, out of the sunlight (preferably, don't sack a fish during the daytime at all there is no need!). Make sure the sack is secured safely to the bank. If there is any flow to the water, face the fish head first into the flow. And check the fish is okay at least every half hour or so. Some don't mind being sacked, but some get very stressed indeed. If it obviously doesn't like the sack, don't imprison it.
When taking photographs of your prize catch, ensure that you are kneeling down. Never ever stand up with a fish in your hands. One flip, and they are dropping from 5 feet plus, onto hard ground. That's the equivalent of you falling off the top of your house. Always keep fish low to the ground. Always lift them over an unhooking mat, just in case. Get everything ready and in place, and you should only have the fish off the ground for seconds. If you have caught a monster, then good luck to you. But learn how to lift it properly. If you are unsure, ask somebody! Anglers are a helpful bunch on the whole, and someone will always help you out. The most common mistake made is that anglers lift a fish by placing one hand directly under the head. This bends the fishes head back, and can cause sever muscle damage. Quieten the fish down (you can do this by covering it's eyes and/or placing your thumb in its mouth! yes, that does work!) and when it is ready, lift it firmly but gently by placing one hand under it's anal fins, fingers either side, and the other hand under it's pectoral fins, fingers either side. This way, the fish will be perfectly balance, and will generally behave for the photos. As often as not, a fish only kicks up a fuss in your arms if it's uncomfortable. Hold it properly, and it will usually behave. If the fish does decide to flap whilst you are holding it, don't try to put it down! you'll drop it. Roll it into your stomach or chest, and hold it securely until it has calmed. Oh, and remember to remove your watch and any chunky rings before picking up the fish! they can cut it quite easily!
The most debatable points regarding fish safety and fish care are the rigs we use to catch them, and there are some real horror stories out there, which the bailiffs see more often than you would think. There are many books written on the subject of rigs, and rigs and hooks may form the basis of a separate article unto themselves on these pages in the near future. For the meantime, if all else fails, please make sure that your lead is released quickly and easily under only moderate pressure. It is tethered fish that are the most at risk, and the lead is usually the one piece of tackle which causes a fish to become tethered.
Tight Lines
Back to the top



